The mouth of Eyjafjordur in Iceland's north. The small white mark on the mid-left -- a fishing boat heading for Akureyri -- shows the scale of the Icelandic environment.


(More travels in British Columbia:    Haida Gwaii     Nootka Island     Cape Scott)

Ian Laval, furnituremaker      Restoring Alishoni, Cape George cutter

 

It's out on its own in the North Atlantic, touching the Arctic Circle; mountainous, glacier-clad, thinly populated -- but heaving with geological wonder, ancient European history, an enviably vigorous culture, sheep -- and fish. 
We travelled round Iceland's 1500-kilometer perimeter; camping -- and with the occasional stay in bed-and-breakfasts -- seeking wildlife amid breath-taking geology, never far from the results of volcanic upheaval.
Iceland has no more than 360,000 inhabitants, descendants of refugees from medieval Norway and of wandering Celts from Ireland. We arrived on Iceland's international airline, were bussed right to our first-night door in Reykjavik, spent the first couple of days in grey rain in Iceland's west, then drove into warmth and sunshine in the south- and north-east. Empty new roads ran through 7-kilometer mountain tunnels and (if you're as fortunate as we were in early June) enjoyed warm, sunny weather a stone's-throw from the Arctic Circle.
In Reykjavik we saw the new Harpa, the big new cultural centre built entirely of glass panels. There are six universities in Iceland, several orchestras in Reykjavik alone and many public art installations. Still under the cloud of 2008's economic collapse in North America and the rest of the economic world, we were left wondering quite how the Icelanders do all this. (They voted, of course, against allowing their government to bail out their banks to solve Iceland's own over-spending spree).

It was 23 degrees C at Raufarhofn, in Iceland's far north-east a kilometer or so from the Arctic Circle. And no biting insects. These are some of the images we brought back to British Columbia.

 


   


Ubiquitous snow-covered mountains dwarf Iceland's habitation.

 Inside Reyjavik's Harpa.


'Sun Voyager' -- a stainless steel sculpture by Jon Gunnar Amason (1930-89) on Reyjavik's waterfront. It represents the dream of reaching undiscovered territory of hope and freedom.

Hallgrimmskirkja -- Reykjavik's magnificent Lutheran parish church, 244ft high. Building began in 1945 and the church was completed in 1986. The statue in front is of Icelandic explorer Leif Eriksson, regarded as the first European to land in North America nearly 500 years before Columbus.












































Gulfoss waterfall, SW Iceland.

Looking towards Reydarfjordur, NE Iceland.

The old farmhouse at Laufas, north Iceland. A church has existed here since early Christianity. The turf-built farmhouse is a restored Icelandic monument.

The marriage room at Laufas. Brides traditionally wore black.

Icebergs calved from the enormous Vatnajokull glacier floating out to sea on the south coast.

Remains of an iceberg -- hundreds of years old? (The ice, that is....)

     Scarecrows -- an Icelandic art-form designed to protect  
eider duck nests lined with valuable down.

Net-floats washed up on Iceland's northeast coast. In a country long
without trees, driftwood -- and whalebones -- were valuable sources of
building material in the past.

Swimming pool at Hofsos, N. Iceland, geo-thermally heated. Most Icelandic communities have one. Not too tough, swimming in 38 degrees C amid dramatic cliff-top surroundings!

Beach in NE Iceland

Racks of drying cod.

Arctic tern protecting its nest.

Icelandic horses are everywhere.

Isolated old church at Grof, near Hofsos, north Iceland.

The ancient church -- still in use.

Enormous fields of gravel -- fifty kilometers wide -- created by glacial action on Skeidararsandur in south-east Iceland. In 1996 a volcanic eruption beneath ice on Vatnajokull glacier caused floods measured at 50,000 cubic feet a second to rush down over the flats, destroying a strategic road and bridges.




Skeidararsandur -- with the gravel fields between the glacier and the sea.

Extinct volcano on the side of Lake Myvatn, central north Iceland.

Typical  barren magma-covered land left behind by volcanic eruptions.

Greylag goose

Whimbrel

Red-necked phalarope

Whooper swan on nest.

Nesting mallard and arctic tern

Eider duck family

Eider duck nest

Oyster catcher nest

Bar-tailed godwit

European wigeon drake and duck

Sea-wolf head

Reindeer in NE Iceland



On the high moorland of Iceland's northeast -- breeding ground of the pink-foot geese that migrate every winter to places like the Solway Firth in northwest England.

Male fulmar flies to its sitting mate on the high cliffs of NE Iceland

Broody fulmar

Washing-up after lunch of cod-cheeks


We were urged not to miss Iceland's lamb hot-dogs.

Kitty in the horseshoe canyon at Siglun, NE Iceland.

A modern 'henge' being built at  Raufarhofn -- aligned so that
the midnight sun lines up with the three arches.

Greenhouses near Husavik-- geothermally heated, naturally.

     Basalt pillars at Hofsos, north Iceland.

June. You're never far from snow in Iceland.

Whaling ships laid up -- for the time being.

Things you wash before entering the pool......

It's a ladies exercise class in progress.

Look what I found -- a pair of fulmar wings!

Elves. A recent poll says 50 percent of
Icelanders believe in them.